Belay Test Competency
Explains that leg loops are to be comfortable, not too tight and not too loose.
Able to demonstrate the two figure check method or push down on the harness to show that it is tight.
Make sure that they can recognize that the harness is double backed (staff should ask).
Make sure harness safety checks are done for the belayer and climber.
This includes the belay device, carabiner, and anchor.
Grigri is correctly set up in the proper orientation and on the correct side of the rope.
Ropes are not twisted.
Grigri is clipped into ground anchor.
Stopper knot is tight and tied correctly (do not fail participant if wrong; instead, correct them).
Demonstrates there are 5 pairs of 2’s in the knot.
Figure-8 has sufficient tail (minimum of six-inches, hang ten sign is a good double-check).
Figure-8 is an appropriate length from the belay loop.
If the belayer has gotten anything wrong before this point, this is their final chance to correct (ie. puts their harness on backwards without correcting).
Make sure there is a clear double-check of system, and there is communication with belayer and climber commands ("climbing... climb on" is NOT failable if not completed).
Make sure there is a click test on the belay carabiner.
Make sure belayer is aware of our approved belay check commands(not a failable offense, only for education).
Must be able explain the set up of the grigri correctly to some degree and must be able to demonstrate the device works as intended.
Brake hand never comes off of the rope. If the break hand comes off the rope, take over the rope and teach the participant the correct method PBUS method. This mistake will end the test.
Doesn't have an excess amount of slack in the rope.
Fixes behavior if slack is not appropriate
Must demonstrate PBUS/TBUS or Waterfall Method. Any other belay method is a fail.
Brake must immediately move to an acceptable brake position.
Remind belayer that their second hand is helpful to catch falls (not a failable offense).
Falls should be an appropriate distance. Example: falling 2 panels is unacceptable, and will result in a failed test.
Climber is lowered at an appropriate speed.
The lower is controlled.
If too slow, absolutely not a problem.
Climber should land on ground softly
If the test was failed, please provide feedback to the participant and offer to practice with them. Note this in the comment below. If the test was passed, explain what the participant did well.